Runic Graffiti in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia Cathedral

In the beating heart of Istanbul, inside the majestic Hagia Sophia, lies a detail that often goes unnoticed. We are not talking about the domes, the golden mosaics or the marble columns.

But of two simple lines carved in stone, seemingly anonymous, yet capable of telling a story more than a thousand years old.

These carvings are runic graffiti, inscriptions made with the ancient Viking alphabet.

They are located on the upper floor of the basilica, along a marble balustrade, and are considered among the most curious and fascinating testimonies left by medieval visitors.

What were Vikings doing in Constantinople? And why did one of them carve his name in a place so sacred to the Byzantine world?

The answers to these questions are intertwined with trade routes, diplomatic relations, and power plays between very different civilizations.

These graffiti are not vandalism: they are silent signatures, memories left by northern men who served the Byzantine emperor. They are concrete clues to a history of exchange, travel, and cultural mixing that make Hagia Sophia a unique place.

If you are planning a visit, don’t miss this hidden detail among the Byzantine and Ottoman splendors.

You can find out how and where to see them in the dedicated section, or check out the ticket page to plan your visit in advance.

The runic inscriptions in the basilica of Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia Mosque, or rather, the Hagia Sophia, as it is called in the Byzantine world, is not only an architectural masterpiece. It is a living symbol of Istanbul’s history, built, transformed and reinterpreted by different civilizations over nearly 1,500 years.

Inaugurated in 537 AD under Emperor Justinian, it was the largest Christian church in the world for nearly a millennium. Its suspended dome, golden mosaics and porphyry columns amazed everyone who entered, from pilgrims to the powerful.

When Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in 1453, the basilica was converted into a mosque. Minarets, mihrabs and Islamic calligraphy were added, but many Christian decorations were preserved under layers of plaster.

In 1935, with the advent of Republican Turkey, Hagia Sophia became a secular museum, accessible to all. A symbolic gesture that transformed this place into a bridge between East and West.

Since 2020, the structure has become an active mosque again, but it remains open to tourists as well. Its dual soul, Christian and Islamic, is visible everywhere: in the mosaics of the Virgin and arabesques, Byzantine crosses and Quranic verses.

To visit Hagia Sophia today is to walk through a building that has crossed eras, empires and religions, and it is at this crossroads that one finds the mysterious runic graffiti, engraved by men from the north that no one would expect in such a setting.

Who were the Varangians

Varangian Warriors

When you think of the Vikings, long ships, coastal raids and battle horns probably come to mind. But few know that some of them ended up serving none other than the emperor of Byzantium.

These northern warriors are known by the name Varangians. Starting in the 9th century, they crossed the rivers and seas of Eastern Europe, reaching as far as the Black Sea and Constantinople. Many of them joined the so-called Variaga Guard: an elite corps of the Byzantine army composed of foreign mercenaries, chosen for their loyalty and strength.

To the emperor, the Varangians were ideal warriors: not involved in internal strife, loyal only to those who paid them. In return, they received honors, riches, and the opportunity to serve in a place that must have seemed exotic and fascinating to them.

They were mostly Scandinavians, but in time they were joined by Anglo-Saxons and Slavs. They spoke different languages, but many knew and used runes, an ancient Germanic alphabet that they carved into stone, wood, or metal to leave names, dedications, or messages.

And just inside the Hagia Sophia basilica, some of these men left the mark of their passage: runic graffiti etched in marble, which have endured for more than a thousand years.

Real“I was there” carved with a steady hand, perhaps during a guard shift or a solemn pause.

Curious to know what is written on them? In the next section we discuss the most famous graffiti: those of Halvdan and Are.

Runic graffiti

By Hermann Junghans – Self-photographed, CC BY-SA 3.0 de, https://commons.wikimedia.org

Yes, literally. One of the most famous graffiti found in the Hagia Sophia Basilica is a simple runic inscription that reads:

“ᚼᛅᛚᚠᛏᛅᚾ,” Halvdan. – Halvdan has been here

A name carved in marble with ancient characters, sounding like a direct message from the past: Halvdan has been here.

This inscription is on the south balustrade of the upper women’s gallery, the area that was once reserved for women and from which there is a privileged view of the nave. Right there, a Varangian, perhaps on guard duty, perhaps praying, left his name.

Nothing else. No date, no additional symbol.

But it is enough to make us imagine his presence in that sacred place far from his homeland.

In addition to this, there is another inscription attributed to a certain “Are” (or “Ári”), found later and less visible. Some scholars speculate that the engraved phrase may be a part of formula:

“Ári m(ade these runes),” Ári engraved these runes.

Both inscriptions are runic writings in the Scandinavian style, dated between the 9th and 11th centuries. They are not signed with military titles or religious references: they are personal markers, perhaps left in secret, or perhaps tolerated by the authorities of the time as simple signs of the passage of men in the service of the empire.

According to a study conducted at the Department of Germanic Philology at Uppsala University, the Halvdan inscription is authentic and consistent with the form of runes used in Scandinavia at the time.

Wikipedia, in its official entry devoted to Runic inscriptions in Hagia Sophia, also confirms its presence and reading.

Why did they do this? Perhaps nostalgia. Perhaps pride. Or just a desire to leave a trace in a world that seemed eternal.

What is certain is that today these graffiti speak to us, and allow us to glimpse a humanity hidden behind the great story.

How and where to see runic inscriptions

By Unknown author – https://en.wikipedia.org

The runic graffiti in Hagia Sophia are not highlighted by golden plaques or pointed lights. To see them, you need a little attention, a good eye — and to know exactly where to look.

The graffiti are found in the south women‘s gallery, or upper gallery that runs along the inner sides of the basilica. Once reserved for women, today it is one of the most fascinating areas for those who want to admire restored mosaics, ancient columns and, of course, these enigmatic Viking signs.

To access it, you have to go up the stone ramp that starts near the north entrance. The gallery is large, but the graffiti is small and barely visible, carved on the marble parapet along the corridor. In particular:

• The name “Halvdan” is carved on the left, in the central part of the balustrade, near one of the pillars.
• The inscription attributed to “Are” is more damaged and less obvious, but is located not far away, still along the same corridor.

Theyare not protected by glass or barriers, but their elevated and discreet position preserves them from direct contact. Some visitors mistake them for simple scratches in marble, so it is important to know what to look for. We recommend that you take a reference photo with you or ask the staff for directions, if available.

Helpful tip: Natural light is your ally. Details are best seen in the middle hours of the day, when the sun filters through the upper windows.

More graffiti and mysterious symbols in the basilica

Runic graffiti are not the only marks left by time on the surfaces of Hagia Sophia. Walking through the columns, galleries, and marble floors, one can notice other hand-etched symbols. Some seem random. Others, however, tell forgotten stories or ancient rituals.

One of the most curious is the so-called Triple Belt, a symbol consisting of three concentric squares connected by lines. It is found engraved on some marble parapets and in various places in Byzantine churches.

This design recurs throughout Europe from the Middle Ages onward, and its meaning is still debated: for some it was a simple board game; for others, an esoteric symbol with spiritual or initiatory meanings.

But that’s not all. Some scholars have also identified signs of secret passages, engraved numbers, Greek and Latin letters, Christian symbols and even crosses carved by pilgrims. These are silent traces that document centuries of faith, prayer and human curiosity.

In some cases, these are marks left by ancient restorers, or by travelers who just wanted to leave an imprint of their passage in a place they perceived as eternal. In others, they are true ritual markings, designed to protect, bless or connect the place to the divine.

Although today many of these graffiti are not highlighted on official routes, you can spot them by looking carefully at marble handrails, column bases, and gallery parapets.

Observe, explore, and be surprised by these details that escape the masses but tell a more intimate dimension of the basilica.

Conclusion

The Hagia Sophia Mosque is not just a place of worship or a historical monument: it is a book carved in stone, where every scratch, symbol or inscription tells a story.

The runic graffiti of the Varangians are only a small part of this tale, but they have a special power: they connect us directly to people who lived more than a thousand years ago, men who crossed continents, changed faiths, fought for emperors and carved their names so they would not be forgotten.

These signs do not make noise. They do not impose themselves.

But they stand the test of time, invisible to many, unforgettable to those who discover them.

Hagia Sophia is full of such surprises.

Whether you are a history buff, curious traveler or just looking for something different, take the time to look beyond the great mosaics and majestic architecture.

Sometimes, magic is hidden in the smallest details.

And if you want to experience this live, plan your visit: check out our Hagia Sofia ticket page for times, gallery access, and suggested tours.